Aran Isles - Or an End to Horseback Riding

Ah, the Aran Isles. As the daughter of a sea captain, 35+ on a ferry boat, I should have been ready for this trip. I should've thought: "You might be in trouble if you have to take dinghy to the ferry." Very often, the ferry from Doolin does not run because of rough seas. But it was a semi-clear day and we decided to chance the crossing; another pivotal word - chance. To the untrained eye, the water did not look too intimidating.

Dane standing at the point, close to where the ferry docks in Doolin.

I'm used to a 4 deck car ferry, four stories, with a liquor bar, a snack bar, enclosed space with tables and benches. This was MUCH smaller. I decided to try the interior as it was misty and cold. A huge mistake. Riding backwards in the bottom of a boat in rough seas - a quick sprint to the bow and a hurl overboard - a huge improvement for this sea captain's daughter.

Note the excited group of passengers. Kit, with glasses, had one goal in Ireland: to go horseback riding. Well, I may have hurled but Kit fell, down the metal steps of the boat and bruised [cracked?] her tail bone. And so ended the dream of horseback riding. In fact, when we arrived at the island, the four "youngsters chose bikes; we had two choices, horse and buggy or tour van.

We chose Birdie's tour bus. Between Jim Carey impressions and frequent *&*#@, we saw and learned much about the island of Inis Mór.

Inis Mor is probably most renowned as the birthplace of the Aran sweater, first used by the island fishermen. The different stitches where invented by generations of island women, all having specific meanings, and each family had its own family sweater design. Aran was an important center for early Irish christianity. The remains of several ancient churches and monasteries can be found on the island, including Teampall Bheanain, reputedly the world's smallest church.

Inis Mor has four perfectly preserved Celtic stone forts, which includes the spectacular triple-walled cliff-top fort of Dun Aonghas, which is named after Aonghas, chief of the Tuatha De Danann in medieval literary legend.

The islands were not immune to the Great Hunger. Irish or Gaelic is spoken on the islands. In fact, Inis Mor has a Irish school, were children come each summer to learn Gaelic and the old traditions. For three weeks you can send your children to "camp" here. Most families have a little plot of land, which they share with sheep, cows, and horses. Birdie told us that's it's customary to tie the legs of two sheep together to keep them from wandering from your land.

As you can see, thatched [pronounced "tatched"] cottages are prevalent on the islands still. If you have any medical emergency, you must rely on the Irish Coast Guard to take you to the mainland.

The ride home to Doolin was on an even SMALLER boat, but it was a sunny afternoon, so I climbed to the top outside deck with Brian and Pam. Aside from once fearing for my life as the boat tipped drastically to the right and then left, I was fine. I figured the rough seas were due to always moving perpendicularly to the waves/tides. Maybe the ride was smoother from Galway, but land's in sight and I feel a Guinness calling my name!