The Beach and Steven Spielberg

Kathryn wanted to go coastal – that is drive northeast from Doolin around the Irish coast to Kinvarra.

Stop #1 – Fanore or Fan Oir, the golden slope, gets its name from the sand dunes along this section of coast.

Kilfenora - The City of Crosses

Kilfenora, found on a low ridge at the southwest edge of the Burren, is home to about 100 people these days. In 1152, this was the site of an important monastic settlement. So important is this diocese, that the bishop of Kilfenora is the Pope, although the Bishop of Galway administers the diocese on his behalf. Kilfenora’s importance as a religious center is underlined by the presence of five High Crosses that stand within or near the ruined Kilfenora Cathedral.

The glass roof was recently added to protect the remaining crosses.

12th century east window of Kilfenora chancel, contains three “lights” divided by piers The capitals are finely carved, showing groups of clerics.

In the north wall is a 15th century sedilla or seat with Gothic tracery and above the head of a bishop. The real glory of Kilfenora is derived from the number of its High Crosses. Originally, there may have been seven although only five can currently be identified.

The graveyard at Kilfenora Cathedral. All the crosses throughout the cemeteries in Ireland face east. "The sun, rising in the east, is the physical light of the world and is a symbol of the Resurrection. When crosses or bodies are facing the east, it signifies that the deceased places his hope in Christ who is the light of the soul. In a similar manner, Churches were once built with their altars facing the east. When individuals were buried in the Church, the face of the deceased was turned toward the altar, therefore toward the east. "

Aran Isles - Or an End to Horseback Riding

Ah, the Aran Isles. As the daughter of a sea captain, 35+ on a ferry boat, I should have been ready for this trip. I should've thought: "You might be in trouble if you have to take dinghy to the ferry." Very often, the ferry from Doolin does not run because of rough seas. But it was a semi-clear day and we decided to chance the crossing; another pivotal word - chance. To the untrained eye, the water did not look too intimidating.

Dane standing at the point, close to where the ferry docks in Doolin.

I'm used to a 4 deck car ferry, four stories, with a liquor bar, a snack bar, enclosed space with tables and benches. This was MUCH smaller. I decided to try the interior as it was misty and cold. A huge mistake. Riding backwards in the bottom of a boat in rough seas - a quick sprint to the bow and a hurl overboard - a huge improvement for this sea captain's daughter.

Note the excited group of passengers. Kit, with glasses, had one goal in Ireland: to go horseback riding. Well, I may have hurled but Kit fell, down the metal steps of the boat and bruised [cracked?] her tail bone. And so ended the dream of horseback riding. In fact, when we arrived at the island, the four "youngsters chose bikes; we had two choices, horse and buggy or tour van.

We chose Birdie's tour bus. Between Jim Carey impressions and frequent *&*#@, we saw and learned much about the island of Inis Mór.

Inis Mor is probably most renowned as the birthplace of the Aran sweater, first used by the island fishermen. The different stitches where invented by generations of island women, all having specific meanings, and each family had its own family sweater design. Aran was an important center for early Irish christianity. The remains of several ancient churches and monasteries can be found on the island, including Teampall Bheanain, reputedly the world's smallest church.

Inis Mor has four perfectly preserved Celtic stone forts, which includes the spectacular triple-walled cliff-top fort of Dun Aonghas, which is named after Aonghas, chief of the Tuatha De Danann in medieval literary legend.

The islands were not immune to the Great Hunger. Irish or Gaelic is spoken on the islands. In fact, Inis Mor has a Irish school, were children come each summer to learn Gaelic and the old traditions. For three weeks you can send your children to "camp" here. Most families have a little plot of land, which they share with sheep, cows, and horses. Birdie told us that's it's customary to tie the legs of two sheep together to keep them from wandering from your land.

As you can see, thatched [pronounced "tatched"] cottages are prevalent on the islands still. If you have any medical emergency, you must rely on the Irish Coast Guard to take you to the mainland.

The ride home to Doolin was on an even SMALLER boat, but it was a sunny afternoon, so I climbed to the top outside deck with Brian and Pam. Aside from once fearing for my life as the boat tipped drastically to the right and then left, I was fine. I figured the rough seas were due to always moving perpendicularly to the waves/tides. Maybe the ride was smoother from Galway, but land's in sight and I feel a Guinness calling my name!